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Writer's pictureAlexandria Cruz

Exploring Cueva del Indio: A Visit to Puerto Rico's Taíno Heritage Site Amidst Ongoing Struggles

Navigating the Complexities of Preservation and Privatization Of Sacred Sites

Members of the Borikua Taino Foundation visited Cueva del Indio in Arecibo, one of Puerto Rico’s most significant archaeological sites, renowned for its Taíno petroglyphs dating back centuries. This site, a natural seaside cave adorned with Taino rock carvings by our ancestors, holds immense spiritual and historical importance. However, the journey to Cueva del Indio was not without challenges, shedding light on the complex realities of preserving and accessing heritage sites in the face of rapid privatization on the island.


Image showing an opening over the water
Image showing an opening over the water

Over recent years, the land surrounding Cueva del Indio has become privatized, with the new owner (José González Freyre, president of Pan American Grain) of the original entrance now restricting access to paid visitors. If the funds collected went to maintenance and making the cave safer to visit, the fee would serve a purpose, but as it stands, the funds collected have only made visiting harder than ever. The original ladder placed by locals has been removed, making it unsafe for many and even leading to injuries. Locals refuse to indulge the new owner, going so far as to tear down their illegal constructions. This has led to the establishment of an alternative entrance, created by the newly established Defendiendo la Cueva del Indio-681 (DCI-861), on the eastern side of the cave. This new path allows visitors free access but they must journey over the craggy rocks under the glaring sunlight with no shade protection. Holes open to the rough waters below, making the path a somewhat dangerous one.


During our visit, one of the landowners attempted to stop me and my partner from leaving the area through their side of the property, aka the illegally occupied land closest to the original Cueva entrance. I was overheated and had run out of water, yet they told me I must return the way I came, back over the rock. This could have been a very dangerous scenario, leading to the possibility of heatstroke. Luckily, activists part of Campamento Murciélago were there to help me and my partner, including long-time land and water protector Alegna Malave. Here is the footage they captured showing how they helped us leave by crawling under a fence near a busy road. We hope to connect with her and her community to see how we can support the important work they are doing to uphold local law:


 

"By law, all beaches and historical sites are considered “property of the people of Puerto Rico,” which means they must maintain publicly accessible paths from the road. Activists claim that private businesses and citizens have blocked these paths using wooden fencing since at least 2016." - Carlos Edill Berríos Polanco via Latino Rebels. 

At this time, the Puerto Rico Department of Natural and Environmental Resources (DNER) is listed as the caretaker of Cueva Del Indio itself, but it seems the activists are the ones on the ground actually caring for it and its visitors. The 1886 Law of Ports for the Island of Puerto Rico established Spanish control over port operations, including customs and commerce, while also defining public rights to coastal areas. Crucially, it included provisions to protect public access to beaches, designating them as public domains. This meant that shorelines and beaches were accessible for communal use, preventing privatization or restricted access. The law aimed to balance economic regulation with public rights, ensuring that Puerto Rico’s beaches remained open to its residents and visitors alike. Despite this, outsiders continue to encroach or block beach access illegally. From contributing to coastal erosion and pollution, displacing local elders from their homes, and preventing wildlife from reaching their nesting grounds, the situation has only escalated in recent months.


The privatization of Cueva del Indio is part of a broader pattern across Puerto Rico, where increasing numbers of historically significant and ecologically valuable sites are being sold to private investors. For Cueva del Indio, this means that access to the petroglyphs, which hold ancestral meaning for Taíno descendants, is now restricted. Local activists, cultural advocates, and Indigenous groups have been vocal in their opposition, working to bring attention to the detrimental impact of privatization on Puerto Rico's sacred sites, access to natural resources, and community spaces.

Community members have called on the government to recognize Cueva del Indio as a protected public site, open and accessible to all who wish to connect with Puerto Rican heritage. Groups are advocating for the preservation of the site not just as an archaeological treasure but as a symbol of Indigenous continuity. The push for preservation faces many challenges, including limited legal protections and increasing land speculation in Puerto Rico that often sidelines local communities.


Standing at the edge of Cueva del Indio, we were reminded of the necessity to honor and protect our cultural heritage. The petroglyphs within the cave represent centuries-old stories and beliefs, symbols left by ancestors as messages of times past. The Borikua Taino Foundation recognizes the urgency of preserving these spaces where the sacred intersects with the ongoing issue of land ownership and access in Boriken.


Bilqis, who was the only one in our group able to enter the cave, shared her experience of stepping into this ancient space, offering us a closer look at what remains of this treasured site:


"I felt a spark deep within—a reawakening, a memory carried in blood and bone. The waters within the cave flowed like ancient whispers, their power reflected in the petroglyphs carved by hands long gone yet so close. I stood with leaders from the Taino foundation, surrounded by kin and community, reclaiming the truth of our lineage that others tried to erase. This reconnection was not just symbolic; it was a reminder that we are nature itself, that we belong to this earth as deeply as it belongs to us.
For so long, we’ve been told that we vanished, that our identity was a myth. Yet here, in the stillness of the cave, that illusion dissolves. The cave holds a narrow passage—an ascent that only the courageous can attempt, a rite of passage, but also a reminder of the challenges faced by our people to fully reclaim their place. Once inside, there's no easy return; demanding resilience and strength.
I dream of a future where all Taino's can enter with ease, where we are guardians of this place, guiding others to connect with the soul of our people. Perhaps we protect it with care, allow it to be free to us, and ask others for a fee to sustain this heritage. In that cave, we come home—home to ourselves and to our ancestors, one heartbeat echoing through stone, water, and spirit."

Located on the northern coast of Puerto Rico, Cueva del Indio is a stunning example of the artistry and spirituality of our Taíno ancestors. This natural cave system is adorned with petroglyphs that capture the cosmology, beliefs, and daily life of Puerto Rico’s Indigenous ancestors. Declared a historic monument, Cueva del Indio is also part of an essential network of caves across Puerto Rico that hold similar carvings and artifacts.

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